Note to users of wave forecasts

• The "seas" referred to in the Coastal Waters Forecast is the "Significant Wave Height" (H_s).  H_s is defined as "the average of the highest one third of the waves."  So the definition implies that THERE WILL BE HIGHER WAVES!
• According to wave theory:
  • 1 in 10 waves will be 1.25 H_s
  • 1 in 100 waves will be 1.67 H_s
  • 1 in 1000 waves will be 2H_s
• Therefore for a forecast of 4 feet, expect frequent waves to 5 feet, occasional waves of 6-7 feet, and a few waves could even be as high as 8 feet!

Boaters need to keep in mind that there are potentially higher waves than what the forecast states.  Sometimes this will be in the form of a higher swell, which might not be as noticeable to small boats in the open waters.  However, if there are choppy, short period, wind waves present, then these occasional higher waves could have a substantial impact on a small vessel.